Have you noticed “hashtag” style wrinkles on your face, neck and arms? You may be seeing glycation. This aspect of aging research has gained significant attention recently and refers to the process by which sugar molecules, particularly glucose, bind to proteins and lipids in the body, forming something called “Advanced Glycation End” Products (appropriately abbreviated to A.G.Es). These compounds accumulate over time and can adversely affect skin health and overall well-being.
Research has increasingly linked A.G.Es to various age-related degenerative conditions, affecting the body and the skin. A.G.Es can contribute to chronic conditions such as cardiovascular disease and diabetes, but they also have specific correlations with skin disorders like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and even skin cancer. Individuals with diabetes and those who are postmenopausal tend to have higher concentrations of A.G.Es, which then exacerbate skin issues.
The accumulation of A.G.Es is a gradual process influenced by various factors, including diet, lifestyle, and genetic predisposition. I’d like to help you learn how to mitigate the damaging effects of A.G.Es through effective prevention strategies.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING THE GLYCATION PROCESS?
The glycation process begins with a reaction known as the Maillard Reaction. This involves the binding of a glucose molecule to a free amino acid, forming what is known as a Schiff base. This initial reaction is non-enzymatic and reversible, meaning that if glucose levels decrease, the process can be undone.
Much like when barbecue sauce is added to a steak on a hot grill, it forms a sticky coating. This is similar to how a Schiff base forms in the skin, with sugar molecules sticking to proteins.
Following the formation of the Schiff base, it undergoes a chemical rearrangement known as the Amadori reaction, creating early glycation products. At this stage, the reaction is still reversible. However, if there is significant accumulation of these early products, they undergo further rearrangement, resulting in cross-linked proteins. This process leads to the formation of A.G.Es, which then begin to interfere with normal protein functions in the body.
A.G.Es have a profound impact on skin health, particularly concerning collagen and elastin, the proteins responsible for skin structure and elasticity. The accumulation of A.G.Es causes collagen fibres to become stiff and malformed, leading to several visible signs of aging:
Decreased Flexibility: Stiff collagen fibres reduce the skin’s ability to stretch and bounce back, resulting in a less youthful appearance.
Wrinkle Formation: As collagen becomes damaged, wrinkles and fine lines begin to form, making the skin look older.
Loss of Volume and Tone: The skin may sag due to the loss of structural integrity, leading to an overall decrease in firmness.
Increased Vulnerability to Sun Damage: Damaged collagen can also make the skin more susceptible to the harmful effects of UV rays, increasing the risk of long-term skin damage.
A.G.Es COME FROM TWO MAIN SOURCES:
1. Exogenous Sources: These are primarily derived from the foods we consume. Certain cooking methods and food choices significantly contribute to the formation of A..GEs. For example, foods cooked at high temperatures, such as grilled or fried items, tend to have higher A.G.E content.
2. Endogenous Sources These A.G.Es are formed within the body, particularly in mature adults. Factors like chronic inflammation, oxidative stress, and metabolic processes lead to the formation of A.G.Es.
The one endogenous source that nobody seems to really talk much about is the
Stress and Cortisol connection.
In our fast-paced world, stress has become a common experience. When faced with stress, the body activates a series of responses, one of the most significant being the release of cortisol, a key stress hormone. Understanding the relationship between stress, cortisol, and glycation is essential for maintaining skin health and overall well-being.
When the body encounters stress, the brain signals the adrenal glands to release cortisol. This hormone plays a vital role in preparing the body for a “fight or flight” response by triggering the release of stored glucose (sugar). This surge of energy is crucial for immediate survival, but when stress becomes chronic, the implications can be detrimental. Add to this, our cells in the outer layers of our skin (keratinocytes) also secrete cortisol when they are exposed to stressors and trigger the release of stored glucose (sugar) into the skin.
As cortisol prompts the release of glucose, blood and skin sugar levels rise. This chronic elevation due to ongoing stress can lead to significant health issues. Consistently high blood sugar levels create an environment ripe for complications.
THE CONSEQUENCE OF ELEVATED SUGAR
When sugar levels remain elevated over extended periods, the excess sugars in the react with proteins in the body and skin, forming A.G.Es. These compounds can damage proteins, negatively impacting their function. – this causes a twofold problem – cells are now deprived of their energy source, so metabolism becomes broken, and the excess sugar outside the cells is unable to be cleared by insulin – so we see the cascade of shiff base and amadori reaction which then presents as glycation in the body and skin.
Chronic stress perpetuates this cycle of elevated cortisol and sugar levels, significantly increasing the risk of glycation. As A.G.Es accumulate, they contribute significantly to skin aging. This connection underscores the importance of managing stress effectively.
LIFESTYLE ADJUSTMENTS
To protect your skin and overall health, it’s crucial to address stress and its effects on cortisol and sugar levels. Incorporating stress-reduction techniques, such as mindfulness, exercise, and adequate sleep, can help mitigate the negative impacts of chronic stress and glycation. By prioritising stress management, you can support your skin’s vitality and enhance your overall well-being
Getting an adequate amount of deep, restful sleep is essential for the body’s restorative processes, including skin repair. During sleep, the body produces growth hormones that facilitate the healing and restoration of tissues. Research from the University Hospitals Case Medical Centre demonstrated that poor sleep quality leads to increased signs of aging and slower recovery from environmental stressors like UV exposure. It’s recommended that adults aim for 7-9 hours of quality sleep each night for optimal skin health.
Diet plays a pivotal role in the formation of A.G.Es. By making conscious dietary choices, it is possible to reduce their accumulation:
Cooking Methods: The way food is prepared can greatly influence A.G.E levels. For instance, using methods such as steaming, boiling, or poaching is preferable to frying, which often leads to higher A.G.E content. Additionally, marinating meats in acidic ingredients like lemon juice or vinegar can help reduce AGE formation during cooking.
Food Choices: Incorporating more fruits, vegetables, whole grains, fish, and legumes into the diet can help combat glycation. These foods are not only lower in A.G.Es but also rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that support skin health.
ACTIVELY TARGETING GLYCATION
For clients presenting with glycation, a comprehensive skincare consultation is, as always, vital. Understanding factors such as medications, genetic predispositions, chronic stress, diet, and sleep patterns can help me tailor an effective treatment plan for you.
Inclinic, I will talk to you about managing stress levels- we may talk breathing patterns and sleep hygiene and other lifestyle choices. I will also recommend a homecare routine that specifically targets glycation with products such as Circadia Counter A.G.E with ingredients that protect against advanced glycation end products, reduce DNA damage and reduce A.G.Es formation. Also contains a transglycation ingredient Carnosine, which has shown a potential mechanism for deglycation,a reaction that can detach sugar molecules from proteins. Circadia Glyco Guard with carefully chosen ingredients to reduce and prevent advanced glycation and detoxify skin, protecting skin from the effects of glycation and glycation induced inflammation while protecting cells from increased sugar levels. Another product I may recommend is Elementals Biofortify with a Niacin and Red Sage blend shown to reverse glycation, allowing the damaged skin fibres to gain back their flexibility.
I’ll then customise a treatment plan that focuses on eliminating the buildup of AGEs in the skin. We may include gentle exfoliation and peels to help remove accumulated damage with gentle acids like L-lactic and mandelic acids that promote cell turnover without excessive downtime. Incorporating enzymes such as cocoa, raspberry seed and papain can also offer a gentle yet effective way to exfoliate the skin.
I may infuse. Ingredients such as benfotiamine, which raises your skin’s natural protection against glycation, or peptides that reduce DNA damage and reduce A.G.Es formation or DecarboxyCarnosine: used for its ability to protect against the damaging effects of glycation. Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide that can help prevent glycation by binding to sugars and preventing them from reacting with proteins. DecarboxyCarnosine is more stable than carnosine and resists enzymatic breakdown, making it a better anti-glycant and anti-oxidant..
IS IT IMPORTANT?
Addressing glycation is crucial for preserving skin elasticity and maintaining a youthful complexion as we age. I want to empower you to take control of your skin health. Utilising a holistic approach that combines professional treatments, medical-grade skincare ingredients, and dedicated home care routines can offer a total anti glycation program and is essential for maintaining radiant, healthy skin for years to come.
