The skin barrier is a term used to describe the outermost layer of our skin and when intact and properly cared for, it acts as an effective shield, keeping external aggressors out, allowing selective nutrients in and keeps our lower layers of skin protected, happy and healthy.
This outside layer has the very important task of protecting your body from the constant bombardment of UV rays, excess blue light from devices and artificial lighting, pollutants and topical products containing harsh ingredients along with stress, all of which can weaken the skin barrier, set up a cycle of chronic inflammation and change the visible appearance and tone of the skin.
Many products in the market, particularly those aimed at reversing visible signs of damage and/or aging skin, carry the risk of contributing to skin barrier damage by stripping skin of its top protective layer and natural oils, leaving skin vulnerable to all abovementioned stressors.
When the skin’s barrier is damaged, this can cause inflammation, redness, and flaky skin that becomes more and more difficult to manage. That is why it is important to know the signs of a damaged skin barrier, as well as know how this damage can be prevented and reversed.
TELLTALE SIGNS YOUR SKIN BARRIER IS DAMAGED
When the skin barrier becomes disrupted, the skin is more prone to irritation and water loss. This results in many of the following visible signs of a damaged skin barrier:
DRY, FLAKY SKIN:
A healthy skin barrier retains moisture and helps maintain balanced hydration levels. The internal hydration levels are crucial as the majority of the skins metabolic processes depend on having sufficient hydration. Damage to the barrier can lead to moisture loss, resulting in skin that appears dry, flaky, and sometimes peels, revealing an inability to retain water.
ITCHY AND IRRITATED SKIN
Damaged skin barrier symptoms can cause the skin to become unusually itchy and irritated. This discomfort occurs as the skin becomes more exposed to environmental irritants and allergens, leading to inflammation.
DECREASED TOLERANCE TO SKINCARE
The application of skincare products, even those previously tolerated, can cause a burning or stinging sensation on damaged skin. This reaction occurs because the protective barrier is unable to shield the nerve endings within the skin effectively.
BREAKOUTS
A damaged skin barrier disrupts the skin’s texture, leading to roughness and acne breakouts. Without its protective layer, the skin tries to fix itself the best way it knows how – this may include creating more oil to try and create a new “seal” on skin, but without the necessary balance of hydration, this excess oil can clog pores and cause acne.
HYPERPIGMENTATION:
Damaged skin affects the skin’s ability to protect against UV and AVL (Artificial Visible Light) damage, leading to an increased risk of hyperpigmentation. Sun exposure can cause dark spots and uneven skin tone, especially when the barrier is weakened.
LINES AND WRINKLES:
The loss of moisture and decreased production of balanced lipids and proteins weaken the skin’s structure, accelerating the appearance of lines and wrinkles as the skin loses its elasticity and firmness.
INCREASED SKIN INFECTIONS:
A strong skin barrier acts as a defence against pathogens. When compromised, the risk of skin infections increases due to the easier penetration of harmful microorganisms.
DELAYED WOUND HEALING:
A healthy skin barrier is crucial for the efficient healing of wounds. Damage can slow down the repair processes, leading to prolonged healing times and increased chances of scarring. This is also why I always talk to you about repairing barrier before we embark on intensive clinical treatment, as many of these treatments work by eliciting a wound healing response in the skin.
HOW DO YOU FIX A DAMAGED SKIN BARRIER?
Major causes of a damaged skin barrier that I see in clinic are overuse of harsh ingredients in cleansers, exfoliants, toners, and acne treatments or intense clinical treatments on unprepared skin.
REPAIRING A DAMAGED SKIN BARRIER STARTS WITH TWO SIMPLE IDEAS
ONE: Less=More. Although the answer to “how much is too much” is different for every skin, there are a few steps I can help you take to build the right skin care regimen that will help prevent or rebuild a damaged skin barrier.
TWO: Lifestyle matters. This is why I will always talk to you about internal support (in this instance, Essential Fatty Acids and Glutathione), sleep and movement.
EVALUATE YOUR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
I help you evaluate your skin care products and the “why” of using them. It’s easy to get distracted by the newest and greatest products and overlook how they interact with other products we are using or whether they are suitable for our skin or lifestyle.
Sometimes just reverting toa simplified or gentle skin care routine can help improve barrier function. For a few weeks, I may ask you to set aside some products and we can then re-evaluate your skin health and recovery.
This is especially important if you’re already experiencing the signs of a damaged skin barrier and if you’re using more aggressive exfoliants or treatments . We will take note of how your skin changes or improves over the few weeks that you avoid these products, ensuring we give enough time (usually a full few weeks) for your skin to restore its natural balance.
CLEANSE GENTLY AND MOISTURISE LIBERALLY
During this time, your routine may just consist of a gentle cleanser and a moisturiser with specific “functional” ingredients that can help with skin barrier repair (i.e., ceramides, hyaluronic acid, fatty acids, niacinamide) but
no fragrances, alcohol, or unnecessary additives.
SLOWLY RE-INCORPORATE APPROPRIATE PRODUCTS
Once you have given your skin a break, we will look to re-introduce (if needed) more intense topical skin care products one at a time. Depending on your skin type and damage, you may need to wait 3-4 weeks before adding other products.
If you feel your barrier may be damaged, or you want some help with your skincare routine to ensure best results, book a consultation at www.skinandwellness.co.nz
